There are a total of four phoenix crowns unearthed from Dingling, including three dragon and two phoenix crowns, nine dragon and nine phoenix crowns, twelve dragon and nine phoenix crowns, and six dragon and three phoenix crowns. Empresses Xiaoduan and Xiaojing each have two crowns. The Nine Phoenix Crowns of Kowloon, which are housed in the National Museum, are among the first batch of cultural relics prohibited from being exhibited abroad. In order to ensure the completeness of the description, four Phoenix Crowns will be introduced together.
Three Dragons and Two Phoenix Crowns: The Empress Dowager Xiaojing’s phoenix crown is 31.7 centimeters high and 34 centimeters wide, with an outer diameter of 19 centimeters and an inner diameter of 17 centimeters. Its temples are 23 centimeters long and 5 centimeters wide. The total weight of the crown is 2165 grams. The inside of the crown is made of lacquered bamboo thread to form a round frame, and a gold ring is embedded around the edge. Adorned with golden dragon three and emerald phoenix two on the crown. The one dragon and two phoenixes in the center both hold jewelry knots in their mouths, with each knot containing three pearls of different sizes, including red and blue sapphires. The phoenix’s back is adorned with pearls. The golden dragons on both sides stand on the Ruyi cloud head made of silk thread, holding a long bead knot in their mouths. The knot is divided into two rows, with three bead flowers in the middle. The upper and lower parts are chrysanthemum shaped, with a gemstone embedded in the center of the flower; There is a peony flower in the middle, with five gemstones embedded in the center of the flower, and two rows of ruby drops hanging from the bottom. The phoenix crown is adorned with eighty pieces of emerald clouds (dotted on hard paper). Four large pearl flowers (all peony flowers), each with seven red and blue sapphires embedded in the center, and seven emerald leaves. Six small pearl flowers (all plum blossoms), each with a gemstone embedded in the center and four green leaves (the top one adorned with twelve green leaves). The temples are divided into three sides, each adorned with a golden dragon and a piece of emerald cloud, embedded with two precious stones, and adorned with bead strings. The crown is adorned with 95 pieces of red and blue sapphires, and 3426 pearls.
Kowloon Nine Phoenix Crown: Belonging to Empress Xiaoduan. The crown has a height of 48.5 cm and an outer diameter of 23.7 cm. The temples are 23 cm long and 5 cm wide. The total weight is 2320 grams. Tie the hat with lacquer bamboo and make the fabric of silk. Adorned with golden dragon nine and emerald phoenix nine on the crown. On the front, there are nine dragons on the upper layer, eight phoenixes on the middle layer, and three rows of pearl strings on the lower layer. On the back, there is a phoenix standing on the upper part, and both dragons and phoenixes hold jewelry knots. Each knot is made of two pearls, one red and one blue sapphire. Forty four pieces of emerald clouds. The crown is composed of a set of flowers made up of gemstones and beads, with red and blue sapphires embedded around the lower edge, and beads around each gemstone. There are six sides of Bo Bi, each adorned with two golden dragons, three gemstones, and a string of beads hanging from the edges. The crown is adorned with 115 precious stones and 4414 pearls.
Twelve Dragons and Nine Phoenixes Crown: Belonging to Empress Xiaojing. The crown is 32 centimeters high, with a length of 23 centimeters and a width of 5.5 centimeters at the temples. The upper part of the crown is flat and wide, with a lacquered bamboo body and a gold collar; There are openings on both sides of the mouth, with a width of 1.7 centimeters and a length of 5.3 centimeters. Adorned with twelve dragons and nine phoenixes on the crown; The top of the front is decorated with one dragon, the middle layer has seven dragons, and the lower part has five phoenixes; On the back, there is one dragon in the upper part and three dragons in the lower part; There are phoenixes on both sides, up and down. Dragons can rise with their heads held high, stand upright on four legs, walk or gallop, with various postures. The lower part of the dragon is a green phoenix spreading its wings and flying. Dragon and phoenix are both adorned with jewelry strings, with one dragon at the top of the front. The string consists of three pearls and two precious stones; There is a dragon in the middle layer, adorned with three pearls and three gems each. The remaining dragon and phoenix string decorations are made of two pearls and one piece of red and blue sapphire. Phoenix eyes embedded with two small ruby gems. Eight large pearl flowers are embedded between the dragon and phoenix, with one, six, seven, or nine gemstones embedded in the center of each flower. Each gemstone is surrounded by a bead string once or twice. In addition, ninety pieces of emerald clouds and seventy-four pieces of emerald leaves are inserted between the dragon and phoenix, and a jewelry belt is decorated around the crown and golden ring. The edges are set with gold bars, and twelve gems are embedded in the middle. Each gemstone is adorned with six pearls, and the gems are separated by pearl flowers.
Behind the crown, there is a golden dragon head embedded on each side, with the dragon mouth holding the temple. There are three wings on each side, each adorned with a golden dragon, two jewelry flowers, three pearl flowers, and a string of hanging beads. The crown consists of 121 gems (53 rubies, 62 sapphires, 4 emeralds, and 2 topaz), 3588 pearls, and 18 small rubies. The total weight of the crown is 2595 grams.
Six dragons and three phoenix crowns: owned by Empress Xiaoduan. The overall height is 35.5 centimeters, the caliber is 19-20 centimeters, the length of the temples is 31 centimeters and the width is 8 centimeters, the inner width of the golden mouth ring is 3.7 centimeters, and the outer edge is 1 centimeter wide. At the top of the front, there is a dragon in the center, holding a drop of jewelry in its mouth. On both sides, there is a flying dragon decorated on the cloud head of Ruyi Cloud, holding a string of jewelry in its mouth; The middle layer consists of three phoenixes, holding pearl droplets in their mouths and spreading their wings to fly. The lower layer consists of three trees with large pearl flowers. On the back, three flying dragons stand side by side, holding jewelry droplets in their mouths. The middle and lower layers consist of four trees with large pearl flowers. Twelve pieces of red and blue sapphires are embedded around the outer edge of the crown, adorned with pearl flowers, and a golden ring is inside. Bo Bi, three on each side, inserted into the golden dragon’s head. Each fan is decorated with one golden dragon, four emerald clouds and leaves, and the edges are adorned with bead strings. A total of 128 gemstones (71 rubies and 57 sapphires) and 5449 pearls are embedded. The total weight of the crown is 2905 grams.
These four phoenix crowns have a solemn design and are exquisitely crafted. The crowns are adorned with dragons, phoenixes, jewel flowers, emerald leaves, emerald flowers, and sideburns, all of which are individually made and combined into a set inserted into the crown. At first glance, the golden dragon on the phoenix crown rises and leaps clumsily above the emerald clouds, while the emerald phoenix spreads its wings and flies among the jewelry flowers and leaves. The dragon and phoenix hold jewelry strings in their mouths, and the golden dragon, emerald phoenix, and glittering jewels complement each other, making them very rich and beautiful.
The phoenix crown is the top hat of the empress, worn during ceremonies, temple visits, and court meetings. According to the “Ming Huidian: Empress’s Crown Dress”, the custom of the “Nine Dragons and Four Phoenixes” crown was made in the third year of Hongwu and the third year of Yongle. The four phoenix crowns unearthed from Dingling are respectively “Twelve Dragons and Nine Phoenixes”, “Nine Dragons and Four Phoenixes”, “Six Dragons and Three Phoenixes”, and “Three Dragons and Two Phoenixes”. In addition, the number of pearl flowers and emerald clouds decorated on the crowns does not match what is recorded in the aforementioned “Ming Huidian”. From this, it can be inferred that the official attire system established in the early Ming Dynasty had undergone changes by the Wanli period.
